New Dog Resources

LEADING THE DANCE
Building A Better Relationship With Your Dog

Leading The Dance is designed as a problem-solving tool. Some exercises should be used for the rest of the dog's life; we particularly suggest the feeding regimen, possession, and the roadwork. Other exercises may be practiced only until the dog understands his position in society. When he graduates, release him from the items one at a time over a period of several weeks, watching for him to go back to his old ways. Many people do "Leading The Dance" one month in six as a preventative measure. If any part of "Leading The Dance" is liable to get you bitten while you're doing it, DO NOT DO IT and GET HELP from a competent trainer!

1. Umbilical cord - As much as possible when you are at home, keep the dog on leash and with you. Put a 6-foot leash on the dog, and attach the other end of the leash to a sturdy belt around your waist. Ignore the dog and go about your business. Having to watch what you do and where you go constantly will bond the dog to you and help make you important in his eyes.

2. Eye contact x 2 - Twice a day, sit down with the dog sitting between your knees, and use a command such as Watch Me, or make funny noises, or tap the dog's nose and then your own, or whatever you have to do to get eye contact.

3. Obedience x 2 - Twice a day, sprint through an obedience session using whatever the dog knows how to do, Sit, Down, Come, Stay, Heel, repeat as needed. Train for a couple of minutes each session. Do NOT touch the dog to praise him.

4. Feed x 2 - When food is left down for the dog to eat, the dog owns the food. Ownership is what dominance is all about, so we must take possession of the food. Feed the dog twice a day, in a confined area such as a crate or the bathroom. Use a Feeding Ritual. Ask him if he's hungry, ask him to help find his dish, to help find the food, ask him again if he's hungry, tell him to go to his area or get in his crate, and give him the food. As soon as he's finished, or as soon as he turns away from his food, or if he doesn't begin eating immediately, take the dish away, throw away the food, and clean the dish. If the dog is not successful at eating (doesn't eat his entire meal), give him half the regular amount at his next meal until he cleans the bottom of the dish. A successful meal means he gets more at his next meal until he eats the amount that will keep him in optimum condition. The food must be high-quality and low-bulk. Water should be freely available all day. Give no treats in the food or by hand. Dogs love rituals, and you are teaching his body to get ready to eat when he hears the beginning of the ritual.

5. Possession is 9/10 of the Law - At least once a day, handle the dog. Repeat the words - These are my ears! This is my paw! This is my muzzle! This is my tail! - as you handle him. If he fusses, go slower. The dog must have a positive experience and that he comes to see that you will be handling him, and it's of no concern to him. When he is completely relaxed and accepts your ownership, say okay and release him. If your dog does not allow you to handle him like this without getting angry or getting away, DO NOT do this exercise. Do the rest of the exercises and use clicker training to teach the dog to allow this handling later, after mastering the rest of these exercises.

6. Long Down-Stay - Do one 30-minute Down-Stay every day. You can watch TV, but the dog must be in plain sight, and you must be aware of him. He can roll over, go to sleep, and look annoyed or bored, but he cannot get up or walk away.

7. I'm-The-Mommy Down - At least once a day, just because you felt like it, tell the dog to lie down. When he does, use your voice only to say to him he did a good job, say okay, and walk away.

8. Bosshood Is In The Eye Of The Beholder - Consider life from the dog's point of view. He sleeps where he wants, eats when he wants, leads you around. Any wonder he gets the impression that he's the Boss? Don't allow him to go through doors ahead of you. Don't allow him to go up or downstairs ahead of you. Don't allow him to lead you down hallways. Always position him or yourself so you are leading and he is following. If he's lying down, don't walk around him. Put your feet on the floor and shuffle right through him. (Note: you don't kick the dog, merely push him gently out of the way.) Make him think about where you are and what you are doing. When he orders you to let him out, take charge of going outside. Build a ritual around the door. Focus his attention on you: Do you want to go out? Sit! When he sits, you go to the door. Want to go out? Sit. Down. Sit. Stay. Then open the door and order him out: Okay, go outside! You change the situation, so you are in charge of it. Keep the dog on the floor. Not on the couch, not on the chair, not halfway up the stairs surveying his domain, not in your lap, not on the car seat. On the floor. Don't leave the dog loose in the house or yard when you're not home. When the Boss isn't home, free run of the house allows the dog to feel powerful and in charge. Don't allow the dog to sleep on your bed or a child's bed. Dogs recognize the bed as a throne for the Boss. However, if he sleeps away from you, he will think that you own the bedroom, but he owns the rest of the house. The dog should sleep in your bedroom. If you can't have him sleeping in your bedroom (allergies, for instance), confine him to his crate.

9. Work Off Energy - Roadwork the dog four days a week at a minimum. Start small, but work up to a mile for small dogs, 2 miles for medium dogs, and 3 miles for large dogs. Many problems will disappear with no more effort than road working. You can jog with the dog, or ride a bike, or lend him to a jogger who's afraid of being mugged.

10. My Game, My Rules - Give the dog only one toy. If he wants to chase the toy, bring it to you and let you have it, throw it again. If he won't chase it or give it to you, turn our back and walk away. He has two choices: he can play with you and the toy or play with the toy alone. Do not, under any circumstances, play tug-of-war. When you can get the toy without chasing him or playing tug, pick it up and put it away. Over time, the dog may earn more toys.

* From "Happy dogs, happy owners, mind to mind" http://sue-eh.ca/ (rev. 05/2021)

More on the Umbilical Cord Method
from trainer Susan Finlay Ailsby

In re-homing adult dogs, I usually have the new owners come over, we thoroughly review the Umbilical Cord Training, then I give them the dog and toys, food, etc., and send them away, saying I want to talk to them regularly, but that I don't want to see the dog for two weeks (unless it isn't working out, of course). Typically, the new owners would (obviously reluctantly) bring the dog back in two weeks, expecting the dog to be relieved to be "home" and want to stay. However, the visit usually resulted in the dog excitedly greeting me, checking out the smells, then plunking down on the new owner's foot and asking if they were going to hit the Dairy Queen on the way home.

Since I've been recommending the umbilical cord for those two weeks, I've noticed that new owners feel more secure that the dog is THEIRS when they come back, and THEY notice before I do that the dog has to go out during the visit. It helps the dog and the people understand each other.

Another way the umbilical cord method helps me is in housebreaking. My house is an open plan, and I tend to get wholly immersed in what I'm doing RIGHT NOW - if I'm on the computer, I'm on the computer, and the rest of the world drifts away. If I'm doing dishes, that's what I'm doing. No matter how great I am at reading dogs and noticing things, I simply cannot concentrate on something as mundane and tedious as housebreaking for two weeks at a time without drifting off into something else. The umbilical cord means the dog/pup is within 6 feet of me most of the time - giving him zero opportunity to make an error in the house and giving me zero opportunity not to notice or read him when he's telling me he's uncomfortable.

An adult dog being rehomed has frequently learned to rely on himself because he's the only constant he has had in an insane universe. Being allowed to wander around my house, he's slowly learning to trust me, but he's still relying on himself. Putting him on an umbilical cord shows him that *I* am important, trustworthy, and reliable. He starts to rely on **me**. He starts to relax. Once the bonding has happened, he is still on an umbilical cord, but one of faith.

Indeed, it is possible to accomplish all these things without using the cord - but the "method" speeds up the process. The umbilical cord is a tool. Like any other tool, use it to further the relationship. Use it to help you explain what the dog needs to know. All training is explaining, and explaining is a conversation between you and your dog.

* From "Happy dogs, happy owners, mind to mind" http://sue-eh.ca/ (rev. 05/2021)

Using the Slip Lead

A British lead, or a slip lead, is a requirement of adoption through the Maggie Society as we have experienced much success when used correctly. Slip leads can be purchased, when in stock, at Tractor Supply, PetSmart, and Unleashed. On adoption day, we usually have these available for purchase for $20 at the Maggie House, but colors are limited. Slip leads can also be ordered through Max & Neo. Use the code themaggiesociety10 to save 10% and donate 10% back to The Maggie Society.

Safety When Transporting

When moving your dog or puppy in a vehicle, use extreme caution. An emergency stop or an overly excited canine rider will often be ready to get out as soon as the door opens. For the safety of your new dog or puppy, we require adopters to transport new pups in a kennel, crate, or with a secured seatbelt attachment. While it is always best to transport smaller pets in a crate or kennel, older puppies and dogs tend to like to ride shotgun. On adoption day, we usually have these available for purchase for $14 at the Maggie House but they can also be ordered through Max & Neo. Use the code themaggiesociety10 to save 10% and donate 10% back to The Maggie Society.